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Saturday, July 26, 2014

Burrito Bastard

The only thing more annoying than a Californian going on and on about In-N-Out is a Californian going on and on about burritos.  Danny Bowien opened up Mission Chinese a few years ago, or maybe a couple of years ago, and I loved it.  More recently he opened up Mission Cantina, a Mexicanish pan-Latinish joint.  I enjoyed Mission Cantina to an extent, though I certainly wasn't as floored as I had been by Mission Chinese.  A few months ago there were rumblings that Cantina started serving a burrito that could perhaps be compared to the California burrito tradition. I was curious.  Here are my impressions.

I ordered the masa fried catfish burrito.  All burritos are filled with beans, avocado, Mexican white cheese, salsa fresca and crema, although I ordered mine without the crema.  The fish was nicely fried with a delicate corn crust.  The burrito was a heavy bastard, very dense.  The tortilla was nicely browned and very compact -- it held its contents well.  Let's cut to the chase: I enjoyed the burrito sort of, but it wasn't super flavorful.  That may be because of my choice of protein -- catfish is tasty but perhaps not suited for a burrito.  The salsa fresca was seemingly sparingly used -- the salsa verde which came on the side with chips may have been useful within the burrito. The beans were not bursting with flavor.  Overall it was a somewhat satisfying burrito which seemed more on the bland side.  I will go back to try the carnitas or lamb, as perhaps these meats will offer more flavor.